What’s it like in Bosnia and Herzegovina (BIH)?
Our Bosnia and Herzegovina blog highlights just how much it’s a land of rugged beauty, historical significance, and untamed nature. For anyone who’s looking for a really authentic Balkan experience, the country offers an unforgettable adventure. From pristine mountain ranges to ancient towns and vibrant cities, overlanding through Bosnia and Herzegovina allows you to uncover a side of Europe that is raw, unspoiled and brimming with stories.
On our journey, we travelled into Bosnia and Herzegovina from Croatia. Our route took us to Banja Luka – Jajce – Travnik – Sarajevo – Jablaničko jezero – Blidinje – Kravice – Mostar – Blagaj castle – Gacko – Jezero Klinje – Mount Maglić – Foča, before moving on to Montenegro. Each location we visited is a testament to the rich tapestry of Bosnia’s culture and natural wonders.
What surprised us most about Bosnia and Herzegovina?
One of the things that surprised us the most was just how cheap it is! Just incredible! We were there in late October 2023 and found that accommodation was so plentiful, great quality and warm, that it wasn’t really worth camping unless we wanted to be in the remote mountains! Even in the centre of the capital, Sarajevo, apartments were available for less than £20 per night!
Oh, and eating out was also excellent value. Great quality food and drink for very little money. Similarly, supermarket food was brilliant value. It made us think that we’re definitely being ripped off in western Europe!
Also, people are genuinely friendly in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Our first foray in Banja Luka entailed us meeting up with a couple of super friendly young women with a fantastic brand new apartment. They looked after us no end, and with a supermarket right next door, it was was a superb introduction to the country. there was even enough room in the apartment to open our tent up and dry it properly, amazing value! It was called Apartman Divine by the way, highly recommended.
Isn’t it all war torn in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
No, it’s not all war torn in BIH, not at all! Despite the war in the 1990s defining the country in recent times, it’s actually been quite a long time since then, and most of the country has been rebuilt and made better. That’s not to say that there are no indication that it ever took place, as there are still plenty of rural buildings with bullet holes in them, and even in the very popular Mostar there are still buildings that were bombed on show.
That said, on speaking to people, many of the issues that were a catalyst for the war have not really been resolved. Although most just want to get on and live their lives in peace.
Mostar: a glimpse into history and culture
Talking of Mostar, after soaking in the tranquility of Jayce and Blidinje, we headed into the city, one of Bosnia’s most iconic destinations. Famous for its stunning Ottoman-era bridge, it’s a must-visit stop for anyone passing through the region. As you drive into Mostar, you’ll be greeted by the sight of the Old Bridge rising above the town, it’s amazing! Mostar’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s not hard to see why. The cobbled streets, traditional architecture, and vibrant markets transport you back in time. It’s amazing!
Clearly, Mostar’s star attraction is the Stari Most (Old Bridge), which gracefully arches over the Neretva River. The bridge, originally built in the 16th century, was destroyed during the Bosnian War and later reconstructed. Today, it stands as a symbol of resilience and hope, drawing people from all over the world. This makes it pretty difficult to get decent photos of at times, patience is the key 🙂
Aside from the bridge, there’s loads more to Mostar, from exploring ancient mosques and Turkish houses, browsing the many shops and stalls, to enjoying local cuisine. The food scene in Mostar is a mix of lovely Turkish, Mediterranean and Balkan influences, making it a great place to savour traditional dishes like ćevapi, pita, and baklava.
We really liked Mostar, iconic rally is the word for the place. We learned loads about the history of the country from visiting the city. However, like many tourist-heavy places, beware the pickpockets, there are many!
Jayce: a hidden gem
Another place that we really liked was Jayce, which we’d never heard of. Nestled away in the heart of the country, it’s a historic town, located where the Pliva and Vrbas rivers meet. It was once the capital of the medieval Kingdom of Bosnia and the home of the last Bosnian king, Stjepan Tomašević, who was crowned there in 1461. The town is famous for its stunning 72 ft (22 m) Pliva Waterfall and the Jajce Fortress, which was the last Bosnian stronghold to fall to the Ottomans in 1527. Jajce also holds historical significance for being the site of the 1943 meeting that laid the foundations for post-war Yugoslavia.
There’s some great views of the town and the fortress on the hill from several incoming roads, and the waterfall really is a lovely sight. The town itself is bustling with people frequenting its many cafés and restaurants, as well as those hikingvthe short distance up the hill to the amazing fortress. The whole place is just so relaxing, and everyone seemed to be smiling on the sunny day that we were there 🙂
Blidinje: an amazing nature reserve off the beaten path
North of Mostar brings you to Blidinje, a vast nature reserve that is a dream come true for anyone who loves the great outdoors. Situated in the heart of the Dinaric Alps, Blidinje is an area of pristine wilderness, offering rugged terrain and awe-inspiring views. It’s a place where you can truly disconnect from the hustle and bustle of modern life … highly recommended!
The Blidinje Nature Park is home to lots of wildlife, and the crystal-clear Blidinje Lake. As avid hikers, the park’s trails led us through forested paths and up into the mountains, where we were met with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. In winter, the area also transforms into a snowy wonderland, and is great for skiing.
As an overland traveller, the real allure of Blidinje lies in its seclusion. You can camp in the wild, take in the silence, and savour the beauty of the untouched landscapes. Whether you’re exploring in the summer or winter, Blidinje is a perfect place to experience Bosnia’s natural wonders up close.
Blidinje was one our favourite places in BIH, it was so relaxing, and pretty. It was also interesting to see how people eke out a living in the area, as it didn’t look the most fertile of land to farm. That said, there are several new wooden-cabin type villages springing up, presumably to cater for the winter skiers.
Sarajevo: a parking nightmare!
No journey through BIH is complete without a visit to the capital city, Sarajevo. This vibrant metropolis is a melting pot of cultures, traditions, and religions, with a history that dates back centuries. Its unique blend of eastern and western influences makes it one of the most fascinating cities in the Balkans.
We found Sarajevo to be an incredibly welcoming city, where it’s advertised that you can apparently park your vehicle in one of the many guesthouses in the area. Whilst people are super friendly and helpful, once you park your car, undoubtedly someone will block you in! We stayed above a busy set of shops and opposite a busy pre-school. This meant that in the morning, we were blocked in twice, once by someone who had left a phone number on their dashboard, and again by someone that worked in the school!
Phoning the number was met by a local who not only spoke perfect English, but was only too willing to shift their car – maybe this is a common practice in Sarajevo? However, finding the owner of the car in the school proved more interesting. Luckily, after about half an hour, someone turned up and just got in and drove off – phew!
Sarajevo: an amazing capital city!
The city itself is full of historical sites, with loads of small winding streets, and loads to see and do. One of the most interesting of us was the Sarajevo Tunnel Museum, which tells the story of the Siege of Sarajevo during the Bosnian War. You can also visit the beautiful Baščaršija, the old Ottoman bazaar, and the historic Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque.
But Sarajevo’s charm lies not just in its history and architecture but also in its atmosphere. The city is a place of contrasts, where traditional coffee houses sit alongside modern cafés, and where the sounds of church bells and mosque calls blend harmoniously. The whole experience really is one that thrives with energy, resilience and a spirit of openness.
Why overland in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Overlanding through Bosnia and Herzegovina offers more than just scenic drives; it’s about connecting with the people and places that make this country so special. Bosnia’s landscapes are diverse, from amazing mountains and canyons to river valleys, making it an ideal destination for anyone who seeks adventure and tranquility in equal measure.
BIH is also an incredible place to experience the warmth and hospitality of its people. Whether you’re stopping for a meal in a small village or chatting with locals in Sarajevo, you’ll find that Bosnians are some of the friendliest people you’ll meet on your travels. Their deep sense of pride in their culture, history, and country adds a layer of richness to your overlanding journey.
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country that often gets overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, but that’s part of its charm. Overlanding here allows you to explore the road less travelled, to uncover hidden gems, and to experience a place that’s still largely untouched by mass tourism.