Overlanding in Albania: it is bonkers!
In this Albanian blog, we’ll hopefully show how Albania, often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, is a hidden gem for anyone looking to explore raw, untamed landscapes, rich history, and an incredible diversity of culture. Whether you’re winding through the rugged mountains or driving along the Ionian coast, Albania offers a thrilling adventure with some of the most picturesque and off-the-beaten-track destinations in Europe. We drove into an unforgettable trip through the country, featuring stops in Apollonia, Korçë, the Llogara Pass, Theth, Tirana, and Sarandë, amongst others.
Oh and they love George W Bush in Albania! Who knew?
Shkodër and Shkodra Lake
Our journey began when we entered Albania from Montenegro and headed over to Shkodër and lovely Shkodra Lake. the lake is awesome, so quiet and serene, with beautiful views, especially and sunset and sunrise. We stayed at the four generation hotel in Shirokë, which has excellent views and was friendly, and they brought breakfast to your room :). Though the walls were like paper, and so it honestly felt like we were in the same room as the amorous couple next door!
Theth: nature’s majesty in the Albanian alps
So we took a visit to nearby Theth, which is like a hidden paradise tucked deep within the Albanian Alps. It had been our bucket list for ages. Getting to Theth was meant to be a bit of an adventure in itself; as apparnetly the roads can be rough and the terrain can be challenging we heard; but the roads have been upgraded and are now as smooth as silk 🙂
Theth is such a magical destination, surrounded by towering peaks, dense forests, and crystal clear rivers, it’s a haven for anyone who likes mountains, nature and the great outdoors. We took our time on the road, as we wanted to really explore the Theth National Park, as it’s home to lots of wildlife and some of the most pristine landscapes you’ll encounter in the country. Some of the wildlife we encountered that we didn’t expect were the feral pigs that love to scoff food from the litter bins!
The village itself is quaint and charming too, with traditional stone houses, welcoming locals, and an atmosphere that feels worlds away from modern life. The roads in the village are all gravel tracks through, so watch out if you’re there in the rain. But for us, the real magic is in the mountains and the scenery. It’s a lovely place to visit, and a great introduction to the country. Highly recommended!
Tirana: the crazy capital
Getting to Tirana
After immersing ourselves in the wild beauty of the mountains, it was time to head on to Tirana, Albania’s vibrant and ever-crazy capital. On the way, it mostly poured down, which we were told was a common occurrence lately! Oh, and watch out for petrol stations that only accept cash, as they are many! The roads to the capital and all pretty decent, and it’s clear that most people live in the west of the country along this route, so you can see how most of the people live, whether it’s in new apartments or traditional housing.
Oh and we spotted a 10 ft (m) statue and bar for former American president, George W Bush, on the way, in Fushë Kruje. So unexpected. Apparently Albanians love America! Who knew?
We love Tirana!
Tirana is an amazing city that on first visit is a little bit bonkers, or maybe even a lot bonkers! Traffic is super busy, and people switch lanes all the time without any indication. Plus the traffic lights are ignored a lot, especially when the brave traffic police are controlling everyone by hand! We found it best to just relax, keep your fingers crossed and go with the flow 😉
We stayed near to the bustling Skanderbeg Square, which has a great car park underneath it with reasonable rates. The square is home to iconic landmarks like the National History Museum, the Et’hem Bey Mosque and the Clock Tower.
Tirana is known for its lively café culture, restaurants, street art, and an uncanny ability to procure things that you definitely don’t see many other places! The street vendors have all kind of shady goods and if you want to exchange money, Tirana is the place to go! It really is a must-visit for any traveller, it’s a little bit wild! It is one of the most fascinating cities we’ve been to, busy both throughout the day and night. Oh and great falafels in the Falafel House Tirana, Rruga Ibrahim Rugova by the way!
Apollonia: a glimpse into ancient history
After escaping the crazy capital, we took a visit to Apollonia, one of the most significant archaeological sites in Albania. Located just outside the town of Fier, Apollonia was an ancient Greek city that flourished under Roman rule. Exploring the vast site feels like stepping back in time – the remains of the impressive Temple of Apollo, the Odeon and the grand city walls are a testament to the city’s former glory.
What makes Apollonia so special though is the serenity of the place, especially after Tirana. While you wander the ruins, the peaceful atmosphere will give you a chance to reflect on the history that unfolded here. It’s an ideal stop for anyone who loves history and archaeology, but also for anyone seeking quiet moments in a breathtakingly atmospheric setting 🙂
When we were there, a Dutch film crew was filming a game show. So there were these Dutch people walking out with virtual reality headsets on amongst the Roman ruins. Maybe We’ll get to see the show one day?!
The Llogara Pass: an amazing, scenic mountain drive
As we continued south, we were blown away by one of the most stunning drives in Albania – the Llogara Pass. This high altitude road weaves through the Llogara National Park, offering jaw dropping views of the Ionian Sea on one side and the rugged Albanian Alps on the other. It’s an exhilarating experience, especially as the road twists and turns around sharp bends and cliffs.
At the summit of the pass, we stopped at one of the cafés to catch our breath and enjoy the panoramic views. On clear days, the sight of the coastline stretching out below is absolutely mesmerizing. This is also a great place to break up the drive, stretch your legs, and take some photos of the surrounding beauty.
Sarandë: sun, sea and relaxation
Further south takes you to amazing Sarandë, a beautiful coastal town along the Ionian Sea. Known for its pristine beaches, turquoise waters, and Mediterranean charm, Sarandë is the perfect place to unwind. We were there in off-season, so accommodation and restaurants were plentiful and cheap 🙂 It’s just so relaxing, awesome!
If you take a walk along the waterfront, you’ll find loads of fresh seafood at one of the many seaside restaurants, or you can take a boat trip to the nearby Ksamil Islands for some quiet beach time. Sarandë is also a gateway to Albania’s Riviera, where you’ll find some of the country’s most beautiful beaches.
Korçë – the worst roads in Albania!
We headed eastwards towards North Macedonia, taking the magnificent, winding, mountainous roads inland on to Korçë. It’s known as the ‘Paris of Albania’ apparently! Nestled in the south eastern part of the country, Korçë is a lovely town, often associated with Albania’s cultural renaissance. There are some great, welcoming cafés, where you can sip on Turkish coffee and people watch!
The roads to get there are appalling mind you. We noticed that some sections were being upgraded, but the majority in the mountains had been washed away, and were just potholes and rocks. Definitely not one for the timid, newly qualified, nor for those precious about their cars!
Also, watch out again for petrol stations that only take cash, as the internet mostly doesn’t work in these rural parts of Albania, so cards aren’t accepted!
The wrong way to North Macedonia!
We ended up at Lake Ohrid, where we attempted to get into North Macedonia. On the southern side of the lake, at Pogradec, it’s not possible to obtain insurance, so don’t go that way. Take the northern route around the lake to Qafe e Thanes, and you’ll be greeted with the welcoming smiles of the North Macedonians!
Overall, Albania is an incredibly rewarding destination for anyone wanting to experience ancient ruins and cultural hubs to wild mountains and serene coastlines. It offers an array of landscapes, experiences and adventures. But most of all it’s beautiful and excellent value for money!