Albania / Republika e Shqipërisë – Let’s explore here
Albania is a diverse mountainous country in the Balkans, in Southern Europe. Whilst not as developed in terms of tourism as many other Mediterranean countries, its coastline is pristine, the sea is transparent, and the mountain views are spectacular.
Albania is about the size of Belgium, and has a population just less that three million, most of whom live the in the central western part of the country. Almost 1 million people live in the capital, Tirana – a really vibrant city which gives the feeling that you can probably buy anything in existence.
The country shares its borders with Greece, Kosovo/Serbia, Montenegro and North Macedonia. The highest point is Mount Korab, on the border with North Macedonia, at 9,068 ft (2,764 m) above sea level.
Current travels
On our current journey we travelled from Montenegro, to Shkodër and Shirokë, overlooking Lake Shkodër, before visiting the lovely mountainous area of Theth. We then visited Komani Lake and Krujë castle before staying in the capital, Tirana. Afterwards we visited the Roman ruins at Apollonia, where a Dutch TV station was filming a gameshow! We stopped off in Vlorë, before travelling over the incredible Llogara pass on our way to the coastal resort of Sarandë, from where you can see the Greek island of Corfu. Finally we moved on to then wondrous Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia via the treacherous and appalling mountain roads around Përmet and Korçë.
We definitely leant a lot more about the Albania’s terrain, the people, their customs, how they drive and their beliefs. Much of it was a real eye-opener!
This is the route that we took through Albania on our travels, from Montenegro to North Macedonia.
Shkodër – Theth – Shirokë – Komani Lake – Krujë castle – Tirana – Apollonia – Vlorë – Llogara pass – Sarandë – Ksamil – Përmet – Korçë – Tushemisht – Lake Ohrid – Pogradec – Qafe e Thanes
Our best places in Albania
Apollonia
Apollonia was founded at the beginning of the 7th century in the lands of the Taunts, Illyrians from Corinth colonisers. The city was named after the God Apollo, and at its peak had 60,000 inhabitants. Julius Caesar’s grandson studied oratory in Apollonia and when he heard about his Caesar’s murder, he travelled from Apollonia’s harbour. When he became emperor he expressed his gratitude towards the city by releasing it from all taxes. Archaeologists estimate that only 6% of the city has been excavated to date.
When we visited, a Dutch TV station was filming a gameshow! It’s a great place to go, highly recommended.
Korçë, Albania
Korçë is the largest city in eastern Albania, with a population of around 75,000 people. It sits in the mountains and the route that we took to get there isn’t maintained at all, and thus there are massive pot-holes and no tarmac at all in lots of sections. The winter weather has eroded much of it to state where it is very hazardous to drive in a standard car. Not that it stopped our mighty VW Golf GTI though … patience is key!
The Albanian workers party – the sole party during the communist year of Albania, was established in Korçë in 1941. Much of the city has fallen into disrepair, although there were clear signs of renovation when we visited. The city is very different from those that lie more westwards towards the coast – there is far less tourism and commerce.
Krujë castle
Krujë castle sits at the top of the town of Krujë around 1,830 ft (560m) above sea level, and was built in the 5th century. In the 15th century, under the rule of the Albanian Christian lord, Skanderbeg, the castle withstood three Ottoman sieges, and was seen as a victorious Christian resistance against Muslims.
Llogara pass
The Llogara Pass sits in the Llogara national park, and is a an awesome road that winds its way over the mountains at an height of around 3,370 feet (1,027 m). About two thirds of the way along the pass (travelling from Vlorë to Sarandë) there is a picturesque scenic lookout with fantatstic panoramic views over the coast and mountains.
Lake Ohrid
Lake Ohrid sits between Albania and North Macedonia and is one of the oldest lakes in the world. The lake is stunning and the Macedonian side is extremely picturesque and provides well for tourists, whereas the Albanian side is more natural.
There are two border points between the two countries on the lakeside road. The northern border (Qafe e Thanes) provides motoring insurance (green card) for those travelling by vehicle without valid insurance for North Macedonia. The southern border (Pogradec) does not have this facility.
Përmet, Albania
Sarandë
Sarandë sits on the Albanian riviera, and is a beautiful seaside resort. The views are fantastic, and the city is well set up for tourism. The greek island of Corfu is just off the coast. There are many great restaurants serving some excellent seafood. It really is a truly lovely city that’s far better value for money than many other cities in the Mediterranean.
Shkodra Lake [Liqeni i Shkodrës], Albania
Shkodra Lake in the north west of Albania is serene, calm and beautiful. Wispy clouds often cover the small towns and villages surrounding the lake.
Rozafa Castle, also known as the Shkodër Castle is one of Albania’s oldest towns. It sits atop a hill 430 ft (130 m) above sea level.
The road to Theth, Shkodër
The road to Theth is a beautiful road that winds its way through the mountains. It used to be that the road was only passable with 4×4 vehicles; however the road has now been upgraded and is almost entirely smooth as silk and accessible to all vehicles.
Tirana – capital of Albania
Tirana is one of the most lively, busy and very friendly cities in Europe. Although driving around is not for the faint hearted, walking around couldn’t be more pleasant. There’s just so much to see. It feels as if you could literally buy anything and everything possible! Skanderbeg Square and the areas around it are particularly great. These photos we took are from early in the morning, as it gets quite lively throughout the day and on an evening. In fact, the whole city has a real buzz about it each evening. Well worth a visit!
Vlorë
Vlorë sits on the Albanian riviera, and is a beautiful city. The views are fantastic, and the general vibe of the place is so relaxed it’s amazing. A truly lovely city that’s far better value for money than many other cities in the Mediterranean.
What’s it like to drive in Albania?
Driving in Albania is not for the feint hearted. In cities in particular, it’s a bit of a free for all. People park literally anywhere, including the middle of the road, and they also double and triple park. Motorbikes and bicycles are often see coming towards you on the wrong side of the road, sometimes at speed. Road lanes are unimportant, people tend to head for where they are going regardless of others. There are many road traffic police guiding traffic as best they can, and thus traffic lights become meaningless.
The use of the car horn appears to be important for many drivers, regardless of whether it’s needed at all. There are many very old cars in Albania, and many that definitely wouldn’t pass an MOT emissions test in the UK, pumping out all kinds of smoke. In the main, Albanian driving is pretty poor, although we found that going with the flow was, in its way quite liberating!
We found that the main roads travelling north-south were fairly ok, however roads in villages or in any way not main arterial roads were very poor, with many being in an appalling state, i.e. not even considered paved roads any longer. Only in Armenia and parts of Serbia did we encounter such poor road conditions anywhere else in Europe! That said, our mighty VW Golf GTI literally took it all in its stride, and so long as we were careful, we found we could navigate the enormous potholes with ease! We never found any roads that required a 4×4 vehicle, rather it is ground clearance that is required.
There are many, many petrol stations in Albania, although most prefer not to be paid using credit / debit cards. Cash in Lek or Euros is by far preferred, to the extent where you may be told that the card reading machine is broken, even though it’s not!
One thing that is a major hazard are the rockfalls. Unlike most places where road signs indicate these as a possibility, in Albania, it’s a major probability. We say many, many places with large amounts of rockfalls, some of which were huge (as big as small cars!).
We’ve also created a dedicated page to driving abroad, which you might find helpful 🙂
What currency do they use in Albania?
In Albania they use the Albanian Lek, although the Euro is widely accepted. In fact, in many instances, it’s preferred and even requested ahead of the Lek. Cash is widely used. The use of credit / debit cards is now widespread in larger hotels and supermarkets, but only in some petrol stations. Traveller’s cheques are accepted in banks in major cities.
It’s difficult to obtain Lek outside of Albania, and you should use up all of your Lek before you leave if possible, as its a closed currency and thus you will find it difficult to change into other currencies in other countries.
There are ATMs in city centres, though not elsewhere. In Tirana, there are an incredible amount of currency exchanges which took all of our left over cash from all the countries we’d been to 🙂
You should make yourself aware of the amount that your bank charges you for using credit and debit cards abroad. Often credit cards are cheaper for purchasing items directly, and for withdrawing cash from ATMs.
What language do they speak?
They speak Albanian in Albanian. English is widely taught in schools, so many also speak English, especially the younger generations. Italian and Greek are also popular.
What time zone is Albania in?
Remember, when you’re planning your next trip to take a look at what time zone it’s in.
Do I need a visa to visit Albania?
We’ve created a dedicated, more comprehensive page on visas, which you should find helpful. Check it out!
Is wild camping legal in Albania?
Yes, wild camping is fine in Albania, although you should avoid national parks and natural reserves.
Is it safe to drink water in Albania?
No, it is not safe to drink tap water in Albania. Bottled water is readily available throughout the country.
Albania SIM card
We bought a One Albania Sim card at one of the many outlets they have in Shkodër. The woman in the store was super helpful 🙂
We paid ALL1800 (£14.50) for a 30 day pre-paid card with unlimited data. The Sim card worked in Albania, North Macedonia and Kosovo.
If you’ve got some awesome pictures, or some useful info that you’d like to share, let us know!
And don’t forget to check out all the other pictures!